By Sarah Coyne
Now that the weather is warming up, it is the perfect time to travel further afield and enjoy some of the island’s best restaurants. Several people have mentioned the Harmony by the Sea restaurant to me over the years, but being located in Pissouri meant that it was just that little bit too far for a bite to eat. However, on a glorious sunny Sunday, we decided to venture out to this beautiful place and see what all the fuss was about.
The restaurant is positioned just off the mini-roundabout in Pissouri. It is a cosy place and has only just reopened for the season, complete with a new head chef. The dark interior is full of character and is beautifully presented with large upholstered chairs. Outside, there are limited tables on the cobbled street, which leads down to the sea. Sitting at the right angle outside, you have a fabulous view with the background noise of crashing waves.
As it was a Sunday, we were presented with the Sunday menu, which offered a limited choice of just three starters, mains (including two roasts) and desserts. Of particular note at this restaurant is the quality of the service. It is second to none and possibly one of the highest levels in Cyprus we have ever experienced. We were served by an exceptional manager called Ivan. From the moment we arrived, this was a man who knew the true meaning of the word ‘hospitality’. The meal ran seamlessly under his direction, and unusually, we had absolutely nothing to niggle about. If I owned a restaurant, I would steal him!
The meal started with a breadbasket together with an unusual butter. The basket contained four kinds of bread, the perfect base for the lightest butter, presented on a layer of salt flakes. We selected the Heritage Beetroots and the Smoked Ricotta as our starters. This is where the new chef, Petros Yiangou, offers flair and experience, having worked in France, Switzerland, UK and America.
The beetroot dish had a selection of three types: the standard, golden and candy varieties. It came covered with grated Anari cheese, olives and walnuts, and a citrus dressing. The perfect flavour combination. The Smoked Ricotta was also very different from the norm with an earthy espuma, compressed pear with calvados, hazelnuts and popped buckwheat. Again, an interesting blend of flavours and textures. The only slight criticism I had was that the presentation, in a full bowl, reminded me of a bowl of porridge! It deserves to be served as delicate quenelles on a plate, as a stand-out dish.
As we all know, Sunday roasts can vary greatly when we dine out, but both the lamb and roast beef options at this restaurant were excellent. Both had a very generous portion of meat – moist, beautifully cooked and full of flavour – and served with roast potatoes and vegetables. However, I did miss horseradish sauce, which was requested but not available. I consider this an essential accompaniment for beef. To be fair, this was the restaurant’s first Sunday roast service of the season, and they did say that other diners had also desired it and that they would be getting some in.
At the end of the meal, my partner chose a Baba au Rum from the choice of three desserts, with the other options being a variation on Bread and Butter Pudding and All About Chocolate. The pudding was served with a small shot of rum on the side, with the sponge sitting on a base of citrus segments and topped with a diplomatic cream (half crème pâtisserie and half whipped cream), sprinkled with pistachio nuts. He definitely enjoyed it.
The regular menu offers a much greater choice of dishes, and next time I might try the Risotto, Seafood Linguine, Catch of the Day or Beef Fillet Rossini, to mention a few. The chef is much in evidence during the meal passing from table to table, which is always good to see and a sign of confidence in his work. We did hear him offer the alternative menu to other diners, so that is worth remembering, if a roast is not to your liking on a Sunday. There is also a vegetarian option on both the starters and mains. The Harmony by the Sea restaurant also has a weekly menu with one additional starter, three different mains and another dessert option.
After such a substantial meal, it was just a few steps to the beach, the perfect place to enjoy a walk whilst the resort is quiet and without tourists. Pissouri is well-positioned for both Paphos and Limassol, and the Harmony by the Sea is highly recommended as a memorable go-to dining destination.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY Mediterranean
WHERE Ampelonon 80, Pissouri Bay.
WHEN Wednesday-Sunday: Lunch 12-3pm, Dinner 6-9.30pm. Subject to change. Monday and Tuesday: closed.
CONTACT 25 581497 (booking advised)
HOW MUCH Starters from ¤6, mains from ¤12, desserts from ¤6
Nomyia is hip, young and energetic, part of the new culinary landscape of the capital. Perhaps a tad too much, as no one was paying attention to us and there was no sign of the menu.
The summer rolls and the duck salad were a tad disappointing. The first one, despite the mint and the excellent peanut sauce, felt dry, whereas the beluga lentils in the salad completely overpowered the duck, which made the dish rather confusing. When duck is served, it should always be the main protagonist.
Considering the main dishes we ordered, more on that below, we only ordered one starter, the steamed pork buns, which I definitely recommend, for three key reasons. One, value for money, as each bun is surprisingly chunky and filling, two, the sweet and slightly earthy flavour of the pork chunks within them, and, crucially, the lovely dipping sauce they are accompanied with. The sauce was on the sweeter side, rather than the smoky offering of a barbecue sauce, and you could easily discern the use of berries, with some small pieces surviving the cooking process. Brushing a bit of the sauce on the doughy buns went a long way in elevating the flavours. We also tried a bit of the duck, sharing a small portion alongside our main dishes. It was well-cooked, with crispy, juicy skin on the side providing ample flavour. As you would expect, it came with thin pancakes to be wrapped in, alongside a few chopped vegetables.
After perusing the menu for a while I opted for the grilled octopus, served with fava puree and a lemon dressing. Other dishes ordered were the salmon risotto and the less adventurous fried baby calamari. Dishes are not served with sides and as such, they must be ordered separately. I was fine with my fava puree being my side but the freshly cut French fries were ordered to accompany the calamari.
The food soon arrived and my octopus was fantastic. It could not have been cooked more perfectly. It was so soft that cutting it could be compared to a warm knife gliding through butter! The fava puree was a perfect accompaniment and I was feeling very pleased with myself for choosing it. However, the others were not as impressed with their food as I was. The salmon had been slightly overcooked and so was a little dry in the middle. My dining partner also felt that the risotto was a little on the salty side. I tried a little and thought it was ok but then again, I hardly had a mouthful so perhaps not in the best position to judge. The French fries that came out with the calamari were superb. They were indeed freshly cut, piping hot and crispy! However, as with the salmon, the calamari was a little over cooked, making it a little rubbery.
As the choice inevitably fell to the meze, I will try to be brief and focus on the most significant entries, as opposed to analysing every single dish.
The menu beats many I have seen in a long time. Of course, what we like to eat is down to personal preference, but I struggled to choose as there were many enticing options. Although the menu is divided into the standard Appetisers, Salads, Pasta, Risotto, Meat, Seafood and Steaks, these dishes are way above the norm, with the kitchen doing their own take on Mediterranean dishes with a very modern twist.
Our starters included the seabass ceviche and roasted aubergine, allowing us to taste both hot and cold items. The roasted aubergine, marinated in miso and served with couscous, pomegranate, raisins, radish, as well as fennel and coriander seeds, was particularly original. It was an extremely layered starter, a reflection of the miso seasoning, which is great for adding depth to a variety of dishes. I do have to say, certain bites veered on the sweet side, however, the couscous does a fantastic job of balancing this out.
Dessert is always tricky. I am often either too full or too satisfied with what I have already eaten to order. However, I couldn’t resist the baked lemon tart, with lemon ice cream, almond crumble and meringue served with berry sauce and fresh seasonal berries. Safe to say I could eat it again, every night for a whole year… and I would still enjoy it as much I did the first time I had it. Breathtaking!
The menu is short and sweet, which is the way I like to see it. However, while there is one vegetarian option, most of the menu offers meat and fish, so it is probably not the best place for a vegetarian or vegan. In addition to the main menu, the restaurant offers a small list of daily specials. On the day we visited, these included Scallops with Black Pudding and Minted Pea Purée or a Breaded Goat Cheese to start, and the main included Ribeye Steak, Pork Shank or a Bulgarian Moussaka. The entrées on the main menu had the No 9 Starter offering Octopus, Shrimp, Calamari, Mussels with a Sweet Chilli and Magic Sauce, Honey Halloumi or Prawns in a White Wine Sauce.
We both opted for ribeye steaks, being one of the juicier and more marbled cuts. The restaurant makes no qualms about pulling the curtain back on the cooking process, as you can see the chefs work their magic throughout the cooking process. So much so, without leaving our table we saw the exact moment our steaks left the grill before being brought over by the waiter two seconds later. One little note here is that while the steaks were perfectly great upon receiving them, they will become progressively better if you wait a few minutes, that’s if you are disciplined enough. Each steak comes with a side and if neither of you is particularly ravenous the two sides should be enough for two people to share. We opted for the fresh-cut fries and grilled vegetables, the latter of which contained aubergines, zucchinis, red peppers and mushrooms, which were all lovely. We also ordered a side salad which was simple, fresh and cool.
But I went straight for the steaks. Or more specifically, the Aberdeen, rib eye, Black Angus steak. Weighing in at a generous 300g and at a price that is extremely reasonable, there was nothing that was going to sway me. When the waiter came to take our order, he was raving about the steak Diane and told us it is their most famous dish. He also recommended the ‘black and white’ which is two half steak fillets, each covered in a different sauce. Sticking to my guns, I went for the rib eye, cooked medium. The dishes are served with basmati rice, fresh seasonal vegetables and a choice of potato. For some reason I thought that chips would cheapen the Black Angus rib eye and so opted for a jacket potato.
Despite how simple the ingredients may seem, the art of making sushi is rather intricate, as I learned at a sushi making lesson with Chef Nobu. Using a set of six hand motions, almost like a well-choreographed dance, he and his highly spirited team moulded various ingredients into sculptural works of art.
Back in the kitchen, Nobu’s razor-sharp knife can be heard cutting through salmon as thin slices are arranged perfectly on a large plate and topped with sesame seeds, chives, ginger spears and grated garlic. The dish is then drizzled with yuzu-soy sauce, combined with olive and sesame oil, to give the Salmon New Style Sashimi a deep, heavenly flavour.
A stone’s throw away from the Famagusta gate and the Green Line, and next to Chrysaliniotissa Park, Orfeas is not really a tavern and not really a restaurant, but an ouzeri.
The restaurant opened in 2008, and today the hosts, Constantina and Costas, are still at the helm. Costas is front of house and Constantina is in the kitchen. Her authentic Cypriot cooking reflects family recipes passed down from generation to generation. The menu is divided into six starters, side dishes, vegetarian, sandwiches, brunch, pasta, fish, family-recommended dishes and main grilled meats. The House Meze is available as a complete meal or mini version. Speciality dishes include Moussaka, Stifado, Beef Liver, Chicken with a Lemon and Honey Sauce and Goat Kleftiko.
Following, the Moussaka was full of herbs and spices and definitely one of the family archived recipes. It was made with pork mince together with the usual aubergines, potatoes and zucchini. Another speciality on the menu which, according to Costas, had been made that day, was the Stifado. This arrived at the table with salad and chips and was quickly demolished. Sometimes, this dish can be a little fatty, but the meat was excellent and high-quality. The flavours of cinnamon and cumin permeated the meat, and our only minor complaint was that it could have been a larger portion. But then the recipient was very hungry and really enjoyed his choice! The final main dish, Beef Liver, was declared the real winner. The generous portion of liver had been grilled and then finished in the pan with onions and rosemary.
In a nearby neighbourhood, buried in old Nicosia behind the busy Ermou street, is another faithful vegetarian spot – Inga’s Veggie Heaven. Although it has been open for years, its hidden location makes it a rather well-kept secret even within the plant-based community. Located on Dimonaktos street near the artists’ studios, the 
A more recent addition to Nicosia’s plant-based scene is Evergreen Vegan & Vegetarian which sits within the Nicosia Municipal Gardens. Nestled between the park’s tall trees is a small kitchen that is open for coffee and vegan cakes as well as a vegetarian dinner menu. Think rice noodles with a homemade teriyaki, ginger and tahini sauce, sweet potatoes loaded with a cashew spread and pine nuts, pizzas and veggie burgers. The 
On Themistokli Dervi street is the colourful Silver Pot, a café-eatery that serves healthy, appetising lunch meals and desserts. Though it is not exclusively plant-based, Silver Pot was one of the first eateries to offer a balanced menu of meat and green dishes. Along with a large selection of hearty salads, almost more than half of the menu is meat-free. This includes its popular weekend brunch, lunch and sweet treats and its daily fully-packed tables make it a local’s favourite.