By Sarah Coyne

As we enter the winter months, our attention suddenly turns to restaurants with cosy indoor seating, to protect us from the elements. Ironically, on my visit to this restaurant we experienced our first rain shower after many dry months. The Londos Perasma Restaurant is right by the B6 road in Timi, on the way to the airport. Driving past regularly, I had always observed it to be a very popular. This was my mistake! Two recent meals and a takeaway later, I rate this place very highly for traditional Cypriot food. It is the perfect choice for a full Cypriot meal or just a snack, as well as an extensive selection of pittas, omelettes and salads.

Londos Perasma originally opened over 40 years ago, by the parents of the two brothers who run it today. Pambos and Andreas Socratous took over from their mother and father just over four years ago. Their mother, Ioulia, still works in the kitchen today and advises on the more traditional dishes – it’s a real family affair. The main attraction with the menu is the many things I hadn’t tried before. Another positive is that we found all the dishes to be very reasonably priced.

Today, the restaurant has an extensive vine-clad outdoor terrace that curves around the building, away from the road. So, while the road is busy, it is not intrusive on your time spent inside. They also have a large indoor area for the colder months with an open fire. Service is very friendly and efficient, even when they are swamped with guests and under pressure with a traditional taverna feel.

To start the meal, they offer a great selection of unusual traditional dishes side by side with the typical dips, Halloumi and Lountza. For our dinner, we enjoyed a portion of Graviera Saganaki – Greek cheese fried in butter and served with hazelnuts, honey and mustard. We also enjoyed a very generous portion of their Fried Feta Cheese in a light filo pastry, with a touch of honey. The pastries were divine and were easily shared between four. Finally, as if we had not had enough cheese, we selected a Homemade Baked Aubergine Dip with feta cheese, peppers and garlic. The combination of these three starters can only be described as superb but the next time we go, we will definitely try the Bouyiourdi – feta cheese cooked in the oven with olives, onions, peppers, garlic and spices in a tomato sauce.

Main course options are mainly from the grill. They have a Meat Platter to share for a minimum of two but on both nights we visited I went for the same main dish as I loved it so much – Lamb Kofta served with Tzatziki. The kofta was not huge but was spicy and tasty and paired perfectly with the yoghurt dip. I actually begrudged sharing this one! Also selected at the table were colossal, crispy and succulent Pork Chops, which were devoured very quickly. All the main courses were accompanied by individual bowls of homemade chips and the freshest of salads.

Their special dishes section offers homemade Moussaka, which will be my choice on our next visit if I can tear myself away from the kofta. Any future diner should also consider the Cyprus Meze, priced at €17. With their variations on certain dishes, I can imagine this would be an inspiring dinner and different from the norm. With the selection of starters, this is also an excellent place for a vegetarian or pescatarian guest.

Our friends who introduced us to the restaurant seemed big fans of the dessert section, which includes Chocolate Cake, Apple Pie, Cheesecake and Trifle. We decided to share a Chocolate Cake, which was scrumptious and decadent. Unlike some places, this restaurant offers an extensive selection of coffees, so we all ordered a smooth Americano. All the drinks are reasonably priced, including their wines from the local Lazarou winery in Choulou.

Londos Perasma is highly recommended for those who love Cypriot food with an original angle. The menu certainly offers something for everyone. On our last visit as we left, the restaurant staff were busily preparing a large table for a rather famous Paphos politician, who obviously knew before me where to go for excellent food!

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY: Cypriot

WHERE: On the B6 Road, Timi, Paphos

WHEN: Tuesday to Sunday 9am-9.30pm

CONTACT: 26 422189, booking advised

HOW MUCH: Grills from €10

Touristy? Yes. Noisy? Quite. Overpriced? Slightly. Then why, one might ask, did I decide to review the somewhat wilting Kathodon tavern in Nicosia?

Because, despite its shortcomings, as one of the first restaurants I visited after moving to Cyprus, I have a soft spot for it; it will always represent the beginning of my life on the island.

That said, Kathodon is not just a mere sentimental choice for me. Its blend of Greek and Levantine cuisine actually make it one of the most original restaurants in town.

On top of that, the uber-central location, in the heart of old Nicosia and a stone’s throw away from the Ledra street crossing, add a je-ne-sais-quoi to the establishment, perhaps thanks to the nearby reminder that we remain in the only divided capital in Europe.

Food-wise, the choice is vast and more creative than similar places. Among the usual suspects found everywhere in Cyprus, such as souvlaki, pork chop and halloumi, the menu features some gems of the Greek and Turkish cuisines.

If I had to suggest a meal to the first-time visitor, I would start with the stuffed Florina pepper, typical of the northern Greek region of Western Macedonia and a serving of Smyrne meatballs (soutzoukakia) served in tomato sauce, a dish brought to Greece by refugees from Asia Minor.

I would then move on to the main courses and go for the kleftiko, slow-baked lamb on the bone, marinated in garlic and lemon juice and originally cooked in a pit oven.

Alternatively, another great choice would be the shish kebab giaourtlou, another Levantine cusine staple, accompanied by a mouth-watering and very garlicky yogurt dressing.

To finish off the meal, for a dessert I would choose the samali with Aegina pistachios, a dish that was born in the streets of İzmir and that is now popular all over Greece, as well as Cyprus.

As you probably already figured out, the menu is heavily influenced by those migratory flows between Turkey and Greece – mostly forced and dramatic – that ended up affecting people and lives, just as much as they affected what they ate.

I recently watched the movie Politiki Kouzina, a 2003 Greek film that tells the story of Fanis, a young Greek boy growing up in Istanbul, whose grandfather, a wise gourmand, teaches him that both food and life require a touch of spice to make them worth eating and living.

For some reason, it made me think of Kathodon. The atmosphere, the spices, the drinks – retsina or ouzo would be the best choice – the menu intertwined among three countries of the same region sharing the same past.

The food at Kathodon is a celebration of both the similarities and the differences between Greek and Turkish cuisine. And, yes, it may be busy, slightly overpriced and a little tired, but it will definitely make you feel like you’re navigating the Aegean Sea without having to leave Nicosia.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Greek-Turkish

WHERE Ledras 62D, Nicosia

WHEN Monday to Sunday 10am-11pm

CONTACT 22 661656

HOW MUCH Starters €5 to €8, mains €7-14, meze per person €15-19

While there is a plethora of choices in Larnaca to go and have a fantastic lunch or dinner, there are perhaps only a handful of places that also serve a great brunch. And, having done the rounds, I was on the lookout for something new. A friend recommended that I try Dolce at the Radisson Blu hotel. My preconception was that it would be modern looking, expensive and offer measly portions but, in my quest for something new, I went to give it a try.

Walking into Dolce, my first impression was that it looked like a function hall. Even the design on the ceiling was reminiscent of some venues that are usually used to host weddings. However, after taking in the bigger picture, I liked the calming effect of the wooden finish on the walls. The colour of the wood may darken the room a little but the sunshine coming in through the large windows leading out to the balcony area seems to balance it out. I also spotted the bar at the far end of the room which displayed all the desserts and cakes that are served at Dolce. I had heard good things about them so I would most definitely be going to inspect that further later on! The outside balcony area was very appealing. The view isn’t much to look at, but it is surrounded by well-kept greenery.

The menu came and the cynic in me expected to be met with extortionate prices. I was actually pleasantly surprised. There wasn’t anything on the menu that I could say was overpriced. I did however notice something else. Spelling mistakes! Not to be picky but I think that a relatively new place in what is a good hotel should pay attention to these small details. Even so, the menu is nicely organised. It has a pleasant welcoming message, a page dedicated to symbols displaying allergens and a ‘directory’ page! The all-important drinks menu had a very good selection – everything from coffee to juices to homemade lemonade and cocktails.

Now, down to business. Being predominantly somewhere to go for brunch, the ‘main dishes’ section had a choice of just three dishes – chicken, pork and salmon. There were a few brunch options that caught my attention. One being the fluffy buttermilk pancakes. However, having already decided that I would be indulging in dessert later on I opted for ‘The King’. Two fried eggs, crispy bacon, halloumi, baked beans, toasted brioche served with a fig marmalade. One thing I’m not willing to be adventurous with is my coffee so, call me boring but, I opted for the filter coffee. The Irish coffee with Jameson whisky certainly was tempting, but it was a little early in the day.

The dish arrived and I must say, the food had been meticulously placed on the plate. The eggs perfectly placed on two rashers of bacon that formed an X shape. The strips of halloumi were laid out in a way that resembles a hashtag, the beans and the fig marmalade in little bowls on each end of the large plate. I cut into my egg and the yolk pored over the bacon on the toasted brioche. It was satisfying to watch, like lava slowly running down the side of a volcano. The bacon wasn’t quite crispy but, almost. That didn’t bother me as I actually prefer it that way. The fig jam, by itself was quite sweet but it was perfectly complimented by the crispy, cooked halloumi strips. The beans were…beans, you can’t really go wrong with that! My coffee had been sat next to me; the aroma was intense and I couldn’t wait to try it. As I had hoped for, it was lovely, the perfect accompaniment to my brunch.

Brunch done with, I moseyed over to the dessert counter. All the selections on the menu were perfectly placed in neat lines next to one another. They all looked so appealing! I went for the Crème brûlée. I was not disappointed. Smooth, melt in the mouth texture left me with an ‘mmm’ moment.

I can most definitely say that I have found a top-notch place to go for brunch. The service was fantastic, the food extremely tasty and the prices very reasonable. I’ll be back for those fluffy pancakes very soon!

VITAL STATISTICS

Address: Radisson Blu hotel, Atlantidon 2

Telephone number: 24505823

Open: 08.00 – 00.00

Prices: Between €6.50-€8.50 for brunch dishes. €6 for all desserts.

It seemed quite fitting to visit a restaurant called Gerrard’s on a night when Liverpool faced Everton. The restaurant gradually filled up with the raucous noise of Liverpool fans ahead of the late-night kick-off, with table after table taken by a generally international crowd, a mixture of Cypriot and foreign residents of Limassol.

They say the first impression is the best impression and the person I assume is the manager lived up to that promise by doing their best to relocate us from the outside area to the restaurant’s warmer interior. While not a major thing, it was still appreciated on what proved to be an extremely busy night.

Gerrard’s has a dedicated cocktail menu so we put the claim of well-made cocktails to the test. While both choices were quite simple, a gin and tonic and a mojito, they were both well-executed. The mojito was especially nice, fizzing with zesty lime and fresh mint leaves, although perhaps drinks that come with crushed ice have met their match with the introduction of paper straws. It is simply impossible to sip such a drink through a paper straw roughly half a minute after it has been served. Just a note to myself to go for drinks that don’t need a straw.

Onto the food, the first thing you notice is that the kitchen is visible from the dining area so customers are able to view the cooking staff while they work. Again, a small thing but it implies confidence in their hygiene policy. We started off with a small plate of chicken goujons which I really recommend for their well-executed simplicity either as a starter or as an accompaniment to your beer during a game. Freshly made, piping hot, breaded but still tender on the inside.

For our main dishes, we went with a simple cheeseburger, a plate of German sausages and a side salad. I quite liked the actual plates everything was served in; the lipped stoneware they use gives everything a home-like feel.

The cheeseburger, which came with fries was good, the beef patty was not too thick despite its 200 grammes and was not overcooked. It also included melted cheese, lettuce on the bottom, tomato on top, all covered in a soft, seedless brioche bun. Again, a simple dish but well-made. The German sausages were also very nice and came with a delicious pretzel roll, as well as three dipping sauces, two of them being different kinds of mustard. While I wouldn’t change anything about this, I can’t help but be tempted by the idea of a pretzel with the sausages served inside it, hot dog style, rather than on the side.

We enquired about desserts but they are not available at the moment. As was explained, the restaurant opened very recently and everything is still being finalised. Despite the strong start in terms of clientele, the menu is expected to expand in the coming weeks. All in all, a very pleasant experience and a venue to which I will be returning in the future.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Pub food

WHERE B1 Navarria Agios Tychon, Limassol

WHEN Daily

HOW MUCH €12 for a burger, €6 for a starter, €8 for a cocktail

CONTACT 96 572122, 95 722723

Since the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic, I have developed an addiction for Nordic crime series, preferably binge watched.

I have gone through so many of them faster than one could say ‘takk’ – thank you, for the poor souls who have not yet familiarised themselves with Icelandic, Swedish or Norwegian.

I must have watched at least 15 shows from Scandinavia, some were very good, some were mediocre, not a single one was plain bad.

But the last one I watched – Trapped – was a high point, possibly ruining all other Nordic series for me.

Set in the remote northern village of Siglufjörður, Trapped is the most expensive TV series ever produced in Iceland, and tells the story of gruff police chief Andri Ólafsson, who is catapulted from a scenario of perpetual boredom to solve the murder of a former townsman whose mutilated corpse is recovered by fishermen.

The sheer violence of the act changes the lives of everyone in the village, whether they are involved in the murder or not. Meanwhile, a bout of severe weather also traps everyone, no one can leave. Add to that a nod to the struggles faced by migrants – sound familiar? – and you have a series that is not only compelling, but terribly familiar.

Why then does it not become cliché? Well, we have the setting to thank for that. Iceland’s unwelcoming, ethereal, remote and pristine white fjords and mountains provide some of the most breathtaking, albeit perhaps off-putting locations.

But, if you’re looking for fast paced action, quick turnarounds and compelling dialogue, Trapped is not for you.

Series director Baltasar Kormákur does not aim to stun the audience, rather to hypnotise it with numbing cold, significant and long pauses, astonishing drone footage and a superb soundtrack, composed by Jóhann Jóhannsson.

Giving away even just a clue would probably spoil the entire two-seasons – unconnected, a big plus in my opinion – so I’m not going to go into further details. Just be prepared, Trapped might just become your latest, albeit most likely short-lived, addiction.

By Sarah Coyne

With Christmas on the horizon, what better way to celebrate than high tea? And for this there is no better place to go than the Elysium Hotel in Paphos to get in the Christmas spirit. And their traditional afternoon tea has been changed to a Christmas version.

On our first visit to the Elysium for the purposes of comparison, the experience was superb. The setting, the service and the superb food in the afternoon tea were all exceptional. One week later we returned to try the Christmas version, and yes, even the very best can, sometimes, be enhanced.

Afternoon Tea at the Elysium has always been a luxurious experience and really should be part of any visitor’s itinerary when travelling to Paphos. It has always been very popular with residents, but the new Christmas version takes it to a whole new level.

On arrival, we had the option to sit inside or outside. The extensive seating area inside is very inviting with big comfy sofas but we decided to sit outside on the terrace. The sea view from here is superb, and if the weather is good, it is the perfect location to sit and relax. On our ‘Christmas’ visit we didn’t see a menu but were offered the choice of coffee or tea. We elected to go for the filter coffee, served in a small logoed silver pot. If you are a tea drinker, the Elysium offers 21 varieties. Then a three-tier cake stand was delivered to the table with an extra plate of cakes, as they couldn’t all fit!

The classic sandwiches served at the Elysium are quite simply superb and the Christmas selection was of Roast Breast of Turkey with Sage, Onion, and Apricot Butter served on Saffron and Lemon Bread, Home Smoked Salmon with Pickled Cucumber on Rye and Wheat Bread and Egg Mayonnaise with Wholegrain Mustard and Chives on Tomato Bread. In addition, we also enjoyed a Local Pork, Shallot and Oregano Sausage Roll. The biggest surprise was what I can only describe as incredible – a Sweetcorn Panna Cotta with Crab and Compressed Cucumber. Any foodie will undoubtedly enjoy this unique combination of flavours and textures, offering a modern twist.

At this point, it is worth mentioning that the sheer quality of the ingredients makes this a memorable experience. The salmon is bought whole, filleted, cured and smoked in-house. In addition, the specialist flavoured breads are always matched to the filling.

Now to the scones. Many places think they can bake them, but the resulting versions prove they are not as easy to create as they look! However, Elysium scones are perfect and exactly the way they should be, accompanied by clotted cream, imported from Devon every week, and a small jar of specialised jam.

It was then time to turn our attention to the patisserie tier on the cake stand. There are four cakes, each decorated with a little bit of Christmas sparkle. A Cherry Wine and Cranberry Chestnut Roll, a Lemon and Hazelnut Toffee Gateaux, a Pumpkin and Apple Pie with a Mandarin Jelly and a Dulcey Valrhona Chocolate Whipped Ganache and Mincemeat Cinnamon Choux. I only regret that having enjoyed all the savoury variations, I was a little full, so I tried little tasters of all the cakes and given the quality and skill of presentation, this is possibly a criminal act! I almost forgot to mention that a slice of traditional Fruit Cake was on the top tier.

So, there you have it, quite possibly the best afternoon tea I have ever had and thankfully, although worryingly, right on my doorstep. We shall certainly return before Christmas to enjoy this festive treat and might just add a glass of Champagne to celebrate the season.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Christmas Afternoon Tea served until January 6

WHERE Elysium Hotel, Queen Verenikis Street, Paphos

WHEN Noon to 6.30pm

CONTACT 26 844444. Booking advised, vegetarian and vegan available upon request

HOW MUCH €38 for two people

A friend recently asked me which part of Nicosia is my favourite. The question was quite innocent and should not involve a lengthy thinking process to answer. What makes people like a certain area? For some it’s the history behind the place, for some it’s the buildings and the amenities surrounding it. For me it’s more often than not the amount of restaurants and bars available.

And few areas in the capital offer more quality eating and drinking choices than Pindarou, a relatively quiet, unassuming, yet somewhat elegant road not far from historical Makarios Avenue.

And, for me, the best among the many options in leafy Pindarou, after trying almost all of them, is Bottega Amaro.

I was relatively reluctant to write about a place that is better known for its elaborate and fancy drinks than its food, but a recent visit made me change my mind. Simply put, as far as I see it, Bottega Amaro is a great restaurant that also features an impressive cocktail list.

And it pays attention to seasonality. The small but intriguing menu changes often according to what are the best ingredients available at the time and always includes daily specials, a sign of creativeness that should not be overlooked.

Although Italian-sounding, Bottega Amaro can best be described as an all-around Mediterranean restaurant. Yes, you will find pizza and pasta dishes – and really great ones at that – but don’t make the mistake of overlooking some great sharing starters and salads.

Sitting on the lovely alfresco deck adorned with perhaps unnecessarily luscious plants, I started with the beef tartare, served with stracciatella, an Italian soft cheese from the southern region of Apulia, truffle and crunchy focaccia. Despite some strong flavours, it did not turn out to be overwhelming, which is exactly what a starter should be. My dining companion opted for a burrata salad with cherry tomatoes and homemade pesto, a dish with slightly contrasting flavours that perfectly complemented each other.

With my appetite whetted, I then ordered the mafaldine, a type of ribbon-shaped pasta, with cacio e pepe, a classic Roman dish, often mistaken for one that is simple. Why? Because cacio e pepe only features three ingredients: pasta, cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano) and pepper. However, getting it right and creating that heavenly creamy sauce that makes up the dish requires quite a lot of skill, which clearly the chefs at Bottega Amaro possess.

During our dinner, the couple at the adjacent table ordered a meat dish that looked and smelt divine. I quietly asked the waiter what they had, a Chateaubriand, very popular in the 80s consisting of a large centre cut fillet of tenderloin grilled between two lesser pieces of meat that are unceremoniously discarded after cooking. Not very sustainable indeed, but the result seemed stunning and I promised myself I will have a go at it on my next visit.

Unfortunately, this will probably not be for a while as Bottega Amaro, in fact, is not a cheap option. Every single item on the menu is quite pricy and, although I firmly believe that quality food should not be inexpensive, there is no shame in seeking out more affordable establishments.

Although, I must warn you, they will probably not amaze quite as much as Bottega Amaro.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Mediterranean – Italian food

WHERE Pindarou 14, Nicosia

WHEN Daily from noon to 11.45pm

HOW MUCH €19-18 for a starter, €16-18 for a pasta dish, €17-21 for a pizza, €20-65 for grilled meat options

CONTACT 22 777270

By Andreas Nichola

2021 proved to be an almost crippling year for the hospitality industry. Bars and restaurants had to close with uncertainty about when they would be allowed to open or operate fully. Measures put in to place to limit customers. Business owners have had a torrid time. Keeping all this in mind, it takes a brave person to actually open a restaurant. However, despite all the obstacles presented, that is exactly what Elia Backyard restaurant decided to do.

Situated a stone’s throw from Finikoudes, just behind Europe square, Elia Backyard restaurant really believe in the love for food. They make a bold claim that, after sampling what they offer, customers will be convinced that food will be second only to loved ones.

Walking up to the alley way that leads to the restaurant, we liked what they had done to begin the experience of feeling as though you are entering a garden. We took a deep breath to enjoy the aromas from the flowers and plants that decorated the walls. Research suggests it takes seven seconds to make a first impression, and those spent walking down the garden path made a good one.

A quick scan of the area as we entered showed the theme of plants and greenery continued. The tables and chairs were all more or less in line with new restaurants going for the ‘modern’ look so, nothing innovative or unique in that department.

We were seated and given the menu which is all on one piece of card. It had the usual categories of starters, salads, mains, pasta and desserts. Starters, salads and pastas had a variety but not one of the main dishes was vegetarian or vegan. While I would hope that the desserts were at least vegetarian friendly, none were marked so.

The prices for all the dishes looked quite reasonable. For a restaurant in such a good location, you would expect to see prices slightly on the high side but, in comparison to other restaurants, they seemed more than fair. I wanted to feel like I was having something a little more special than souvlaki or chicken fillet so I opted for the ribeye, which is actually charged per 100 grams. My partner opted for the salmon fillet in an orange and dill sauce. We also chose the smoked feta with Florentine pepper and chilli jam to start with.

The starter came out pretty quick. No complaints there. The jam covered the large slab of feta perfectly, corner to corner and the two flavours married together perfectly. The saltiness of the feta balanced out by the sweetness of the jam topped off with a little kick from the chilli left us feeling quite pleased. We weren’t made to wait long before the mains arrived. My rib-eye was served on a wooden platter with vegetables and new potatoes while the salmon was beautifully presented on a bed of orzo surrounded by the orange and dill sauce.

I sliced through my steak with ease – literally like a hot knife through butter. It was so soft and cooked exactly as I had asked for. I don’t usually order steak unless at a steakhouse but this time I was very happy I did. The vegetables were also done extremely well. Not underdone but not cooked so much that they lose all structure. They still had a little crunch. I didn’t want to try the salmon that my partner ordered because it would have taken away from the flavour of the steak I was so thoroughly enjoying. However, I was told that it was tasty but the dill flavour was a little overpowering for her palate.

We ended the meal by ordering profiteroles for dessert, to share. A dessert each would have been way too much! The ratio of cream to chocolate was spot on. The cream wasn’t too rich and the neither was the chocolate while the choux pastry was light and airy.

While I don’t think that the food at Elia Backyard restaurant comes close to my loved ones, it was indeed a very enjoyable experience. The service was prompt and friendly, the food was tasty and the overall vibe of the place was good.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY International

WHERE Elia Backyard, Plateia Vasileos Paulou 11, Larnaca

WHEN Monday-Friday 6.30-10pm. Sunday 12.30-10.30pm

CONTACT 24 642542

HOW MUCH starters €5.50-€7, mains €11-€17, desserts €6-€7

Before visiting 1842 που τον τζιησβέ στο freddo (1842 pou ton tzisve sto Freddo) – bear with me for a moment, we will get to the meaning of the establishment’s name – I had to make sure that the village of Farmakas was actually located in the Nicosia district.

Upon checking, I realised it was even if the hour it takes to get to this brunch place means it is further away than Larnaca.

Word on the street is that 1842 is one of the best places on the island to get brunch, combining a modern concept with traditional elements of the Cypriot cuisine.

The name reflects the concept. A ‘τζιησβέ’ is a small, long-handled copper pot with a pouring lip designed specifically to make Cypriot coffee, whereas “freddo” refers to one of most recent interpretations of coffee on the island.

In order to achieve the desired balance between traditional and modern, the good people at 1842 turned to Cypriot chef Stavros Georgiou, finalist in Masterchef Greece in 2020. The menu, in fact is his brainchild, as it strives to incorporate the idea of a brunch with local and fresh ingredients that have been part of the island’s culinary landscape for a very long time.

I arrived accompanied by two eager brunch companions, and we ordered more than what three people normally would in order to sample as much as possible from the menu.

The first dish to arrive was a velouté of trahana, traditionally a soup made from a fermented mixture of grain and yoghurt or fermented milk; and avgolemono, a classic soup with egg yolks and lemon juice. The result was a strong, slightly sour thick soup, perfect for winter months.

I then tried the Cypriot omelette, with halloumi, bacon cooked in red wine, spinach and homemade rustic bread, probably the least impressive dish among our choices, as opposed to the Dakos salad with scrambled eggs, smartly enriched by dried, crunchy bread soaked in local tomatoes and tsamarella, a traditional Cypriot cured ham.

The pièce de résistance however was the Cypriot brunch, featuring fried eggs, fried lountza – a revelation – fresh grilled halloumi, anari cheese and local black olives. Simple and unassuming, yet wonderfully balanced.

The dish was also accompanied by a great fig jam and local honey. The village of Odou, famous for its honey, is in fact only 10 kilometres away from Farmakas.

Make sure to book a table on the veranda overlooking the hills, one of the place’s main selling points. Inside, in fact, 1842 is nothing to write home about, although at least it is quite spacious. Extra points for the ample parking space just outside the nearby church, often an issue in villages.

All in all, a very satisfying eating experience, certainly aided by the necessary trek to arrive at the place, surrounded by Cyprus’ winter greenery.

Piece of advice, make the visit to 1842 part of a day trip and enjoy the surrounding villages, such as Fikardou, Odou and Machairas, you will not regret it.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Brunch – Cypriot food

WHERE 1842 που τον τζιησβέ στο Freddo, Agias Irinis 7, Farmakas

WHEN Tuesday to Friday 7am-6pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am-6:30pm

HOW MUCH €6-16 for a brunch entry, €3-6 for a dessert

CONTACT 99 631175

By Sarah Coyne

It is a brave restaurant owner who launches a new business during these uncertain times. Thankfully, this did not stand in the way of the team at the Cliff Social All Day Project, which opened its doors last December. This large venue must have been a considerable investment for the owners.

Located on the cliff (hence the name) below the Moutallos school building, it offers sweeping views of Paphos and the coastline. The interior has a very trendy ‘Shoreditch’ London vibe and offers  various seating options, with areas divided into smoking and non-smoking, and a vast outside terrace, which really makes the most of the views.

When I write a restaurant review, I always visit the venue incognito and for nearly four years, I have always managed to get away without the restaurant knowing that they are being reviewed. However, I was found out for the first time at this new restaurant. On seeing me writing notes, our waiter asked if I was writing a review. The fact that he worked out I was writing a critique is a credit to the service and attention offered at this restaurant.

The whole team is led by the very experienced manager, Stelios Stylianou. This high level of service was clear from the start when my mother had huge problems showing her proof of her NHS vaccinations. The waiter had the patience of a saint. I think I would have just asked us to leave and possibly not return, but he spent ages telling her different things to do on her phone until it eventually worked.

The menu is extensive, offering traditional dishes with a modern twist. The Cliff Social Menu starts with a fabulous brunch menu, offering sweet and savoury pancakes, a healthy Acai bowl, Eggs Benedict and Shakshuka Eggs. After 1 pm, the main menu starts and is available all day until 10 pm, when it switches to Sharing Platters and Nachos, until late. There are eight entrées ranging from Halloumi bites to Oysters.

As we noticed the generous main course portions going past the table, we went straight to the main event. The menu is divided into an awe-inspiring selection of salads, including poke bowls, pizzas, pasta, burgers and their ten ‘House Suggestions’, named after different movies. The burger section includes six unique variations using pork, chicken or Angus beef. There is also a ‘No Regrets Burger’, which is vegan, made with soya cheese and vegan honey mustard sauce.

We opted for two of their house options: the ‘Second to None – Rustic Chicken’ and a Spicy Chicken Penne. The chicken dish, perfectly cooked on the grill, was thyme scented and served with a Dijon mustard sauce. On the side, there were fries and grilled vegetables. The sauce was excellent, but if there was one minor criticism, it could have done with a little more.

The pasta was also a generous portion and included chicken, rocket, Manouri cheese, chilli peppers and pistachios. It was a melt in the mouth experience.

For dessert, they have a new concept called, The Sweeterie. This is where you can put together your choice of pancakes, doughnuts, mini waffles or ice cream. It starts at a very reasonable 3.50 euros for two doughnuts or pancakes, with a choice of filling. The Sweeterie is only open from 10am to 6.30pm daily and would undoubtedly appeal to anyone with children, together with the further attraction of a playground at the back of the building.

A Signature Cocktail list offers a choice of seven cocktails, inspired by the artworks of Turkish Cypriot artist Ümit Inatçi, which stand outside the restaurant. The wine list certainly shows an expert behind it, by selecting some leading Cypriot and Greek wines. Some fine examples range in price up to 70 euros, including our local Tsangarides winery as the house option.

There is much to love about the Cliff Social Project: exciting architecture, great food, superb service, and easy car parking. I shall certainly return. They have the winning formula for a strong future regardless of world events, with a very experienced, observant and well trained team.

SPECIALTY International

WHERE Kâmil Toçan 1, 8016 Paphos.

WHEN Brunch 9.30 – 1 pm. Main Menu 1pm – 10pm. Nachos and Platter 10 pm – Midnight.

CONTACT 99 580 313

HOW MUCH Main Courses from 10 euros

We visited Indian restaurant Saffron on a blisteringly cold weekday evening, the cuisine serving to complement the innumerable layers of clothing we had donned for our outing. Because once you run out of warm things to add externally, your last resort is to inject some heat from the inside.

Walking through the narrow, vacant, sodden streets of old town Limassol, we quickly realised that our reservation might not have been needed. With a handful of exceptions, bar after bar, restaurant after restaurant, was either empty or shut altogether. Indeed, once we arrived at Saffron, the kitchen and staff were solely preoccupied with takeaway and delivery orders, with only one other table arriving throughout our visit. Regardless, the staff were attentive, courteous and helpful with any questions and requests.

Our drinks included a simple local beer and a mango lassi. The lassi was quite mild and pleasant, fruity but not overly sweet, cool and naturally creamy, although my dining companion would have preferred a touch more cardamom. We opted for the vegetable samosas as a starter, of which you receive two. The samosas had a quite crispy exterior, which I liked, and a steaming, fragrant interior, very mildly spicy, with soft potato and peas. They were accompanied with a dipping sauce, which was somewhat sweet, and spicier than the samosas themselves.

Although hardcore Indian cuisine aficionados will bemoan the lack of daring in our main dishes, I had been hankering for some murgh makhani (butter chicken) for quite some time, and that itch had to be scratched. The other meat dish we ordered was the kadhai lamb, a North Indian curry made with tomatoes, onions, bell peppers and coarsely ground spices. We partnered the two curries with steamed basmati rice, which was perfectly fluffy, a cheese naan bread, and saag aloo, cubed potatoes cooked with various spices, browned garlic and onion, mixed with spinach and dried fenugreek leaves. The restaurant offered to adjust both curry dishes to our desired level of spiciness.

When every dish, after the aforementioned samosas, arrived, as beautifully presented as they were, I must confess that my greedy, gluttonous, sheer volume-seeking eyes betrayed the slightest hint of disappointment at the size of the portions. However, not only was I pleasantly surprised to find out that the food we had ordered was more than enough, but we actually had to ask the restaurant to pack the leftovers for us to take home.

The food itself was very pleasant and well-cooked. The butter chicken was as good as I have had in Indian restaurants in both Rusholme and London, particularly over the blank canvas that is the plain basmati rice. The same applies to the kadhai lamb, which was equally as nice. The only change I would make in hindsight was to order a single portion of saag aloo instead of two as that proved to be excessive. All things considered, the visit was very pleasant and we would return again.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Indian

WHERE Saffron, Eleftherias 50, Limassol

WHEN 12 noon – 11pm

CONTACT 96 293737

HOW MUCH €5-8 for a starter, €13 for a curry, €4-7 for a side

We all like to travel but in recent times haven’t really been able to. However, if you want a slice of Italy and an authentic Italian experience you’re in luck! Divinus is a relatively new addition to the Makenzie strip and promises to share the exquisite tastes of Italian culture. With it bringing the finest ingredients straight from Italy, I was really looking forward to seeing what Divinus had to offer.

The inside of this sea-front eatery is modern and the wooden furnishings add a touch of elegance. We sat outside because we enjoy the sound of the sea and watching the planes arrive. The menus were brought to us and the first thing I noticed was an entire section dedicated to pizza! Pizza Di Napoli, to be precise! There are three categories, Classics, specials and calzones. The classics and the specials have pizzas with both a red and white base but a couple in the specials have their own unique base such as a tartufo or a porcini mushroom base.

The main food menu, the ‘ristorante Italiano’ had your usual starters, salads, meat, seafood and of course, a section dedicated to pasta and risotto.

Despite many of the dishes sounding tempting, I didn’t deviate from my pizza plan and ordered the Carnivora with toppings of spicy salami, prosciutto cotto and Italian sausage. Trust me, it was no easy decision! The options are all very tempting. One pizza even had apples, walnuts and honey! I wondered if that could be a potential dessert! My partner also agonised over the menu and went for a pizza; prosciutto crudo S. Daniele, Rucola I Scaglie di Parmagiano.

We weren’t waiting too long before the food arrived, and it was pizza art. One of the best looking pizzas I’d ever seen. The toppings were plentiful but at the same time didn’t overpower the cheese or the firm but fluffy base. The salami wasn’t the kind of spicy that will blow your head off, instead it was a rich flavour of herbs and seasonings. The pizza was quite filling and I most definitely felt satisfied right down the last bite.

While we were eating, we had noticed somebody going from table to table to have a chat with the customers and after we were done, he paid us a visit. It turned out to be the restaurant owner, Nick Georgiades, who told us he had lived in Naples for 37 years and despite being an engineer by trade, he is now following his passion. We had noticed a huge variety of Italian wines on the drinks menu (about 60!) which aren’t just any old bottles, they are handpicked by Georgiades himself as he is also a member of the Italian sommelier association. His knowledge and enthusiasm when talking about the subject is fascinating. Any wine lover wanting to learn about tasting and theory can also attend a six-week course hosted by the man himself.

Georgiades also brings ingredients straight from Italy so that all the meals are as genuine as possible. After chatting with Georgiades, we decided we had room to share a dessert. It had to be the classic tiramisu which is also homemade by the resident Italian chef. Thankfully, we only ordered the one as it was plenty to share. It did not disappoint! The cream was not too rich and the balance of coffee and alcohol was just right; a light, tasty dessert.

As you may have guessed, I thoroughly enjoyed my experience at Divinus. The setting, the food, the friendly owner and reasonable prices combined have left me pondering what I will be having the next time I visit.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Italian

WHERE Divinus, Tasos Mitsopoulos Avenue, Larnaca

WHEN Tuesday-Sunday 1-10pm

CONTACT 24 361111

HOW MUCH Pizzas from €8-€15

By Sarah Coyne

As my January diet did not turn out to be quite as healthy as I had planned, I went looking for divine inspiration at the Meraki Market Café. In Paphos, this is the headquarters of healthy food and was the first vegetarian restaurant to open! It was launched in 2018, set back from the coastal road at the St George’s traffic lights in Chlorakas. The building offers an internal dining area, plus plenty of outdoor tables for the better weather. On the day we visited, it was pouring, and the café gave us a warm welcome with its homely atmosphere, filled with wooden tables and multicoloured chairs.

No wonder many vegans and vegetarians travel from across the Island to spend a few hours eating food designed especially for them. The menu changes every few months to allow for seasonal fruit and vegetables, and starts the day with one of the best selection of brunch dishes I have ever seen. There are eight brunch choices, and unusually I loved the sound of all of them, including Tutti Frutti Pancakes, Peanut Butter and Caramelised Banana Bagel and a Savoury and Sweet Smashed Avo.

While I am not a vegetarian, I have tried and failed to be one in the past, sometimes we need to be reminded of the benefits of a meat-free diet. The menu at Meraki was extensive for our lunchtime visit, with the dishes served all day after the brunch selection finishes at midday. It offers a combination of traditional dishes such as Lasagne, Burgers, Curry, Salads with some sandwich options, such as Falafel Wraps and Bagels. The lengthy, detailed descriptions on the menu demonstrate the abundance of fresh ingredients. On the side, you can order Sea Salt Fries, loaded with Mexicana or BBQ Jack, or unloaded, Sweet Potato Wedges, Dips and Salads. You can also request a side portion of their homemade sauces.

We chose the house speciality, Meraki Nachos. All the Tortilla Chips are homemade and come covered with Jalapeno ‘Cheez’ sauce, Vegan Sour Cream, Chopped Peppers, Cherry Tomatoes, Jalapenos, and Smashed Avocado. It is described as the “ultimate, indulgent, crunchy nacho experience” with a central pot of Bean Chilli. Indeed, my meat-loving partner declared it a huge success, which surprised me! It was served on a large wooden tray presented almost as a work of art. It could certainly be shared, if two persons were looking for a light lunch.

Our other main, Jamaican Curry with Caribbean Rice, was another winner! This was a medium spiced curry made with Kidney Beans, Red Lentils, Zucchini, Spring Onions and Garlic. It was accompanied by Caribbean Rice cooked in Coconut Milk with Pineapple, Green Pepper, Red Onion and Coriander. On a damp cold day, the combination of spicy curry flavours was very ‘hygge’, giving that feeling of wellness and contentment.

The real test was did we miss meat from our meal? The answer was a resounding No from both of us. This is testament to the fact that the kitchen at Meraki thoroughly knows its subject and prepares the dishes extremely well.

Since we had polished off all the healthy food, we were too full to try any desserts, which was a shame, as they looked very tempting. Most of the desserts at Meraki are dairy, gluten and refined sugar-free, including Cheesecakes, Chocolate Avocado Cake and Banoffee Pie.

The drinks menu is extensive and, quite rightly, centred around freshly pressed juices and smoothies. However, in addition to their regular coffee selection, they have a range of speciality drinks, including unusual lattes from Beetroot or Gingerbread to Turmeric or Dragon Fruit options. Thankfully, they also have Tsangarides wines and a great selection of spirits.

Meraki is the perfect destination for just a coffee, a juice, brunch or a vegetarian meal, and we will certainly return soon.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Vegetarian/Gluten Free/Vegan

WHERE St George’s Shopping Mall, Griva Digeni 57, Chlorakas, Paphos

WHEN Monday to Saturday 9.30am – 5.30pm (Last orders)

CONTACT 26 221 527

HOW MUCH Main Courses from €7.50

There is something rather bohemian about brunch. As far as I’m concerned, a meal that does not qualify either as breakfast or as lunch needs to be surrounded by an interesting ambience, as the locale’s aesthetics becomes central to the customer experience.

Too much attention on anything other than the food would greatly bother me at a ‘normal’ restaurant, whereas I find it perfectly acceptable, if not required, at an establishment that mainly focuses on brunch.

That said, D.O.T. in NIcosia, ticks all the right boxes if it’s too late for breakfast and you think lunch at midday should not be enjoyed in southern Europe.

Located in one of my favourite areas of the capital, a stone’s throw from Famagusta gate and the architecturally quirky Spel Gallery of Contemporary Art, the place is a must, even more so on a sunny Saturday or Sunday as part of a stroll around old Nicosia.

The thing about brunch places is that, bar some variations, the customer expects to be able to choose from some old time classics, such as eggs Benedict, avocado on toast, pancakes and, in some places, a few bagel options.

Where consistency is key, attention to details is even more important and D.O.T. passed the test.

I had a go at the eggs Benedict, a personal favourite and my go-to choice for brunch. The hollandaise sauce was perfectly executed and not too lemony, which often spoils the flavour of the eggs.

However, the real twist was the exceptional English muffin, the base of the dish. More often than not, it is simply overlooked and gets served either too soft, which then makes the dish too soggy, or too crispy, which overpowers all its other components. None of that happened at D.O.T.. The sourdough muffin was perfectly toasted, buttered and a great complement to the eggs.

My brunching companion opted for the avocado and eggs on toast, an option that never appeals to me, but that nevertheless I tried, as the avocado had a paste-like consistency that inspired me and the dry chillies drizzle on top ended up enhancing the flavour of an otherwise traditionally mild dish.

Onto the the sweet entries, we shared a chocolate, banana and hazelnut pancake. Nothing wrong with the execution of the dish, but I find banana to be way too exploited an ingredient when it comes to brunch. A more original option alongside it would have been perfect, but pancake is pancake and, it goes without saying, the dish was devoured in minutes.

By gazing at other tables, I felt like the next visit should be for lunch, as I will have to try the ravioli stuffed with cheese and pistachio smothered in a light tomato cream.

Last but not least, the decor deserves praise. Not too much, not too little, just the right amount of quirkiness and design, as you would expect at any decent brunch place. But for the real treat and weather permitting, I recommend you book one of the many tables outside under the tall trees overlooking one of the quietest, youngest and frankly hipsterish areas of the capital.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Brunch

WHERE Athinas 6a, Nicosia

WHEN Tuesday to Friday 11am-4pm, 6-11:30pm. Saturday and Sunday 10am-4pm, 6-11:30pm. Monday closed

CONTACT 22 101228

HOW MUCH Brunch entries from €9 to €15, starters from €9 to €12 main courses €15 to €25

This Limassol establishment’s self-appointed cafe moniker is somewhat misleading. While the decor alludes to more casual places, and indeed the overall vibe is relaxed enough to make you feel at ease wearing jean shorts and a t-shirt, you will be paying restaurant-level prices for restaurant-level food.

The restaurant has three areas, one outdoors where smoking is allowed and shishas can be ordered, a quasi-outdoor area with impermanent glass dividers shielding you from the full effect of the elements, and a true indoor area, although that is basically reserved for the bar and it is unlikely to see anyone seated there.

We had requested to be seated in the shielded area, considering the current temperatures, which they were happy to do. Additionally, we also requested that one of the many heaters be moved close to our table and turned on which again the restaurant was happy to do.

Our drinks included a beer and homemade lemonade, with the latter being served in a mason jar glass. In hindsight, the ice-filed lemonade, as sweet and tangy as it was, may have been the wrong choice considering the time of the season. Something perhaps better suited to a spring or summer visit.

For a starter, we ordered the soup of the day, which was tomato. A simple dish but made very well, with the tomato and basil flavours well-blended with each other, and the soup having a nicely balanced consistency, not chunky, but not blitzed to death either. The addition of some croutons provided further texture, while a drizzle of sour cream offset the base flavour nicely.

Our mains included a pork kebab, served with tzatziki, a requested replacement for the sour cream it usually comes with, grilled mushrooms and wild rice, as well as a dish of lamb chops, served with sauteed vegetables and potato wedges. Both dishes came with freshly cut lemons to squeeze over the meat.

In terms of the first dish, the mushrooms were quite nice, particularly with the lemon juice drizzled over them, while the pork itself was also as well-made as you would expect for a restaurant under the Carob Mill restaurants umbrella. Succulent, juicy but adequately cooked. The wild rice, cooked with thinly sliced pieces of various vegetables was also a good accompaniment, especially with the tzatziki. The lamb chops were equally good.

For a dessert, we tried the Ferrero crepe, which came with strawberries, banana slices, melted Ferrero Rocher chocolate, whipped cream and vanilla ice cream. It was as delicious and rich as its ingredients suggested it would be.

This brings us to the overall experience, which was unquestionably positive. My only grumble would be the prices, which are somewhat high for the types of dishes you are likely to order, as well as the style of the establishment. In short, should a self-styled café be charging nearly €20 for lamb chops and €17 for pork kebab, as nice as each dish was? Well, that’s entirely up to you. The extra money goes to the premium of the restaurant’s undeniably appealing location, which is the Limassol Marina.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Brunch, grilled food, sandwiches

WHERE Limassol Marina

WHEN 9am–1am

CONTACT 25 051333

HOW MUCH €7 for a starter, €17 for the kebab, €20 for the lamb chops

A casual afternoon out for a couple of drinks can build up an appetite so, quite spontaneously, my friends and I decided to find somewhere to go and satisfy our hunger. With nowhere specific in mind, we began to wander the streets. Restaurant after restaurant turned us down, whether they actually were fully booked or, were not impressed by our casual afternoon attire on a Saturday evening is anyone’s guess.

About to give up our search, I spotted a small, blue Hoffbrau sign protruding from a building in the distance. My curiosity got the better of me and I led the gang towards the light! By the entrance, in large letters, was the number ‘1900’. We opened the doors to find a rather hip looking bar. However, we wanted food! Luckily, we spotted the stairs and soon realised they led up towards a restaurant! And they had space for us. Success!

The walls were plastered with artwork, an eclectic collection that seemed to fit well with each other. It was mesmerising looking around the room, appreciating each piece. We were so engaged by the artwork that not all of us noticed the waitress appear until she asked for our attention. She wanted to let us know of the specials of the day. Trachanas soup and slow roasted lamb cooked with lemon and spinach. The actual menu wasn’t very extensive but offered a variety of very interesting looking dishes. While I was interested to see what was on the menu, my head had already been turned by the slow roasted lamb!

The waitress has left us another menu. The drinks menu! She informed us that they have 107 different beers and 170 whiskeys. Alas, my request to sample them so I could choose which one was my favourite before ordering, was denied. I thought it would be an arduous and long task going through the menu to try and choose a drink but it was the opposite. It was very interesting to see all these beers from different countries with different flavour and brewing combinations. There was even a page dedicated to recommending a certain beer with each dish on the menu. While the others went with the recommendations, I went rogue and opted for a Hertog Jan Grand Prestige.

It didn’t take too long for the food to arrive. Two of us ordered a combination of the stuffed cabbage rolls and the stuffed vegetables. There was an order of chicken in orange juice, thyme and garlic and of course, my slow roasted lamb. From the first bite, there was a ‘mmm’ sound from each of us! My lamb was tender and succulent, the lemon sauce it was cooked in had a wonderful creamy texture which was perfect for combining with the rice. Despite everyone thoroughly enjoying their meal, the one comment that we all agreed on was that the portion size was a little small. We found ourselves scrambling to finish the garlic bread.

However, this being said, the food was exceptional, the beers were great, the staff friendly and helpful, the setting fantastic and prices very reasonable. I would definitely go back to Art Café and am keeping an eye out on their social media for events they host where you could come away with one of the many fantastic glasses they use to serve their beer!

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY International

WHERE Art Café 1900, 6 Stasinou Street, Larnaca

WHEN Wednesday-Monday 6pm-2am

CONTACT 24 653027

HOW MUCH €11.50-€15 for mains

By Sarah Coyne

Due to world events, we have all been eating out a lot less than usual. This, in turn, has meant that some world cuisines have been missing from our dining experiences. Indeed, I have not enjoyed a Chinese or Indian meal for quite literally years!

Friends have constantly recommended one Chinese restaurant, the Imperial Chinese on Poseidonos Avenue in Paphos. Despite having lived here for many years, and as can often happen, I had missed this gem until now. It is positioned on the first floor of a large modern building just set back from the road. Those in the know about Chinese food have indeed been making it one of their favourite spots.

Upon entering the building, you take a lift to the first floor, which opens up into a considerable space. It is tastefully decorated in a very modern style, creating a luxe dining rendezvous. Gone are the days of Chinese restaurants with flock wallpapers and gold dragons everywhere. The interior is vast, with the addition of a sizeable dining terrace overlooking the avenue below.

The restaurant promotes itself as modern Chinese with chefs from China and Thailand with the extensive menu reflecting the many regional cuisines from across this huge country. When we sat down a large bowl of prawn crackers was put on the table, the first of our freebies of the night. If you are a lover of Sushi, there was a good list of the more traditional dishes, either individually or as a platter. And perfect for these chilly days, there were ten soup options, varying from Won Ton to Tom Yan Chun. The other starters included the usual Tempura Prawns and Spare Ribs, but we went for the recommendation of our fellow diners and ordered Fried Prawns on Toast. The prawns were large, succulent and tasty, plus despite being fried, they were not in the least bit greasy.

For main course, the possibilities are endless. We selected two chicken and two beef choices to be shared with fried rice. One of the chicken dishes was in Singapore Style, which one of the waiting staff recommended. Personally, I loved it, but our guests found it a little too spicy. The other option was a tantalising Sizzling Chicken. Beef dishes included one with Cashew Nuts and the ever-popular Crispy Beef. They were both excellent and certainly tasted very authentic. All the dishes were cooked perfectly and beautifully presented.

Thankfully the tables are large, and there is plenty of room for all the dishes. Unlike most Chinese restaurants, the portions are very generous, providing enough for everybody to enjoy second helpings. Despite the size, they were still full of quality ingredients and had not been made to look more extensive with the addition of multiple sauces.

To end our Chinese banquet, we were delighted to be offered yet another freebie. The dessert menu was not presented, as the waiter said, “a sweet dish to share was on the house”. This arrived on the table as a large bowl of Ice Cream with scoops of four varieties and the addition of Apple and Banana Fritters. All the other tables seemed to have the same, but I am not sure if this is always the norm.

The only slight criticism I had was that the service was almost too efficient and too fast. The whole team were very attentive throughout, but we finished the meal very quickly. Possibly, we were actually at fault for not taking up the offer of a break between the first two courses.

Such is the success of this restaurant that seven years ago they opened another Imperial Chinese in Nicosia so it is available at both ends of the island.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Chinese

WHERE 18, Poseidonos Avenue, Paphos

WHEN Monday-Sunday 6pm to 12.30am

CONTACT 26 954 010

HOW MUCH Main course around €11

After a short hiatus and a temporary love affair with brunch places – which might come back during Cyprus’ short but amazing spring – I returned to the island’s queen of dining establishments, the taverna!

I was determined to find one I had not visited before, but, to be frank, I have tried so many in the past couple of years it turned out to be quite a challenge.

Luckily, through word of mouth, which is undoubtedly the best way to find new places, I was able to find one and, for that matter, one with a solid reputation among the capital’s taverna aficionados.

Located in Strovolos, Stou Oresti does not immediately catch the eye from outside, but, then again, few similar places ever do, as they tend to focus more on the concrete side of things – i.e. your food – and less on appearances.

Accompanied by my faithful dining companion, we opted for the small meze, as opposed to the full one, to actually be able to enjoy our food and avoid feeling like inflated balloons at the end of the meal, a recurring feat after almost every visit to a tavern.

The first things to arrive were the bread and the dips. Nothing extraordinary, one might say. Well, not quite this time. The bread was fresh, warm and homemade, a pleasure to taste and a good indication of the restaurant’s attention to details.

The only extra dish I ordered that was not included in the meze was a saganaki made with graviera, a hard cheese with a subtle nutty flavour from Greece, accompanied by a wonderful strawberry marmalade, which perfectly balanced sweetness and sapidity.

We were also served a complimentary serving of snails, a nice touch and a further nod to the taverna’s attention to details.

Onto the meze selections with some of the usual suspects, such as pork and chicken souvlaki and sheftalies – juicy and compact, some of the best I have tried recently.

However, the top prize goes to the deep fried zucchini covered in beer batter, a rather unusual sight in a tavern, but a true revelation. Beer batter requires careful treading when used. Too little and the whole thing falls apart, defying the very definition of batter, whereas too much overpowers its content. Orestis’ was absolutely perfect.

The real life Orestis, the owner of the place and its chef, came to greet all patrons at some point, people he knew and people he did not. Although his ear for accents needs improving, as he thought I was from Thessaloniki, it was another nice touch and and appreciated gesture.

To finish it off, we were each served a complimentary piece of galatobureko, semolina custard baked in filo and covered in syrup.

All in all, Stou Oresti turned out to be a great experience, with the hidden gems such as the fried zucchini and the homemade bread taking centre stage rather than the meat. The setting could do with some zhuzhing up, but at least it’s spacious and comfortable.

Now I will be the one to recommend it to people looking for a good taverna and that always makes me happy!

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Cypriot, meze

WHERE Stou Oresti, Stavrou 111, Strovolos

WHEN Tuesday to Saturday 6pm-midnight, Sunday noon-4pm, Monday closed

CONTACT 22 420500

HOW MUCH Small meze €16, regular meze €19, starters from €2.50 to €10 main courses €9 to €12

Perhaps it was an unconscious decision prompted by the surprisingly vicious cold snap currently gripping the island, an unwitting turn towards familiarity and reliability, but visiting Chesters recently was not so much the seeking of new flavours, rather more akin to touching base with an old favourite.

Found on the very edge of Limassol, near Amathounda, Chesters has evolved from its more traditional pub roots in the late 90s to become a Limassol staple, gradually moving up the scale of quality, range and price along the way, while springing a miniature restaurant scene of its own, through the creation of Uptown Square, encompassing the three other establishments on its doorstep.

The restaurant is split into three sections, interior, outdoor area and deck, and an additional lower-level exterior area, with the latter reflecting the high demand they have had to accommodate in recent years. On the night of our visit, guests were limited to the somewhat protected section of its outdoor area, which includes outdoor heaters, where smoking is allowed and shishas can be ordered. We had made a reservation well in advance to ensure that we would be inside, nestled in its wood-heavy interior.

Our drinks included a bottle of red wine, Cypriot winemaker Vlassides’ excellent shiraz, and a cup of piping hot Rooibos tea, with both options being perfectly suitable for a chilly March evening.

For starters, since one of us was fasting, we picked grilled button mushrooms and guacamole dip. The mushrooms, accompanied by a wedge of fresh lemon and sprinkled with parsley, were surprisingly good for such a simple dish and should prove to be more than enough for two or even three people, provided they are indeed meant as a nibble. The guacamole dip, accompanied by thin, toasted pitta, was again pretty good, fresh-tasting with notable hints of lemon and coriander.

The first main was the Mongolian pork chop, one of three different pork chop options. It comes marinated in a sauce influenced by its description, served with country potatoes and seasonal vegetables. They were happy to replace both sides with mash and a fresh salad, while accommodating a request for tzatziki at no extra charge. The chop itself was as juicy and well-cooked as you would hope for the price, which is a general reflection of the establishment as a whole. It is not a budget restaurant, but you get exactly what you pay for, including in terms of service provided, with the servers being polite, welcoming and helpful.

The second dish was pan-roasted sea bass, served with baby potatoes, Kalamata olives, cherry tomatoes, capers and lemon confit. The fish was very well made, with a welcome crust on the outside while being soft on the inside, falling off the proverbial bone. The addition of lemon confit was inspired, elevating the citrus flavour that goes so well with fish. However, we thought the dish could lose the olives.

Desserts included a sour berries sorbet, which tasted fresh, nicely balancing sweetness with more tart flavours, as well as a chocolate fondant, served with vanilla ice cream, which was again, very good. All in all, a very pleasant experience, which was, as mentioned before, far from a surprise.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Grilled dishes, pub food

WHERE Chesters bar and restaurant, 194, Amathoundas Avenue, B1, Pareklisia, Limassol

WHEN 9am-1am

CONTACT 25 025555

HOW MUCH €10-€18 for a main, €6-15 for a starter, €6-8 for dessert

From its humble beginnings in a small corner shop in town to a new, more modern premises on the busy Makarios avenue, Larnaca’s Jemms American steak bar has been a favourite for many people, for many years.

The new location compared to the old one is chalk and cheese. Jemms has gone from a small, no-frills shop to a classier, modern look venue with pictures on the walls of the New York skyline, the famous yellow cabs and, of course, the Empire state building!

There is some outside seating but as Jemms is located on a busy main road, we didn’t want to have the taste of car fumes with our meal. When we sat down, although we already knew what we would order, I wanted to take a look at the menu to see what else is on offer. Jemms now has a lot more variety than back in the day. The New York cheese steak sandwich sits proudly at the top of the menu above a variety of eight different types of burger! There is now also a variety of chicken burgers. I was actually starting to get tempted by some of the other options, but in my heart I knew I what I wanted.

Both of us ordered the double New York cheese steak sandwich meal that came with chips, coleslaw and a drink.

The owner prides himself on the orders not taking more than 15 minutes and true to his word, just before the 15-minute mark, the waiter approached our table holding a basket and two drinks which he put on the table. He then politely asked if there was anything else he could help us with. In jest, I said, “just the other steak sandwich”. It seems there was a misunderstanding and he had only put the one steak sandwich through, thinking that my brother simply wanted a drink. It wasn’t too big of a deal as the sandwiches are split into two pieces so we decided to just share one until the other arrived. No sooner had we taken a bite from the sandwich when we heard a tirade of expletives flying out of the kitchen as a result of the order misunderstanding. It went on and on, to the point where it became awkward and took away from the enjoyment of our meal. It also got to the point whereby we started to wonder if it was aimed at us for not being clear! The waiter came out sheepishly and apologised for what we heard, but the tense and uncomfortable atmosphere had already been created.

Shortly after, the second steak sandwich appeared, and we were starting to feel ‘normal’ again. We were now able to enjoy and appreciate what we had actually come for. Being straight out of the kitchen, it was nice and hot. The baguette that encases the filling is somehow consistently fluffy, soft and light. The ever so tender and perfectly cooked steak is combined with an ever so slightly creamy sauce mixed with mushrooms and peppers, covered with a very generous amount of melted cheese that holds the whole thing together. The combination of the soft baguette, the high quality and tasty beef with additional filling accompanied by the melted cheese is absolutely delightful. Once again, there was silence on our table, but this time because we were both mesmerised by the fantastic taste of this sandwich. I have eaten steak sandwiches at various restaurants and hotels but none, in my opinion, compare to this. In addition, the very generous portion of chips were crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, exactly how chips should be. The whole combination, absolutely top notch!

After we had finished eating, the owner made a point of coming out to speak to us. He apologised for what we had heard and assured us that it was not aimed at us. We started to see a completely different side to the man. The conversation got round to different types of meat. He told us about his family’s relationship with the meat industry. His knowledge and passion for high quality steak was something else. He told us about how meat can be classified as Black Angus (which is the high-grade quality that he uses) and about how the taste changes based on the different feed and even how the cows are looked after. Apparently, some are even played soothing music!

As we were getting up to go, we told him about how our friends from the UK have his steak sandwiches on their ‘to-do’ list for when they come to Cyprus, and how other people we know from Nicosia and Limassol have day trips to Larnaca to come for his sandwich. He seemed genuinely humbled, shocked and was lost for words. I may be wrong, but I could have sworn there was almost a tear in his eye.

I’ve been many a time before and will be going again. I suggest you add Jemms on your ‘to-do’ list as well.

Vital Statistics

Address: 17 Makarios Avenue, Larnaca

Opening hours:  Monday – Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday 11am-5pm

Cuisine: American grill

Telephone number: 24 659665

Price: €10 for steak sandwich. €12 for steak sandwich meal.